Spoon

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

If you’re determined to have a rock-your-world dinner in Kowloon, make a reservation at Spoon by Alain Ducasse in the InterContinental.

Or wander into the Peninsula Hotel , pretend you’re a guest there, bat your eyes, and ask the concierge to please call ahead for a table.

Granted, I don’t normally fly under the radar like that, but it occurred to me mid-Bay on the ferry that I’d forgotten to take care of this earlier. Given my attire (white t-shirt, faded jeans, a backpack, and stringy hair from having trekked all over Victoria Peak then hanging out over the railing on the ferry), my expectation was that they’d tuck me in a corner behind the kitchen door...if they let me in at all.

Oh, was I in for a surprise.

Not only was I met at the restaurant entrance by the General Manager (a lovely Frenchman who made sure there were no fewer then three handsome waiters attending to my every need at any given moment), but was shown to what has to be the prime spot for Bay watching—the elevated bar in the front dining room (see the table on the far right edge of the photo). I had it all to myself, was doted on all evening, and ate the most spectacular food of my life.

(Note to self: The white asparagus custard with egg is beyond nirvana when it comes to first courses. My world has been changed forever.)

The charming Frenchman, as it turns out, opened Café Boulud in New York years ago, where my friend, Gavin Kaysen, is now executive chef (the wunderkind of all chefdom, in my opinion). We visited at length about lovely food and lovely cities, me making the point that San Fran gets bonus points as the only city in the States where you can find a lovely Sauterne by the glass in every single restaurant.

Which is probably why he treated me to one during the desert course. And yes, it was divine.

When the Hong Kong skyline lit up with lights and lasers at 8:00 p.m., my prediction this was the best seat in Kowloon was proven true. As last nights go in any visited city, this one was going out in high style...high style, indeed.

(Photo credit: InterContinental Hotels and Resorts)