Passing Through the Meridian

Monday, May 5, 2008
Beijing

The Meridian Gate is the true entry point to the Forbidden City‘s Outer Court, where ceremonial events occurred. It was from the sky-high balconies that the Emperor would review his armies and announce the new lunar calendar on the Winter Solstice. Basically, it’s the pulpit from which he ruled the world as they knew it.

Today, it symbolizes the barrier between chaos and castles.

First stop: The ticket windows to the right of the five entry arches. The line moves quickly, provided you can fight your way through the entrepreneurial “guides” (see previous post). Apparently, the ticket window is the land of last chances; they know if they don’t snag a naïve tourist here, there are no more shots. They latch on, and don’t let go, no matter how many times you insist “No, no, no.” It got so bad that I finally began pretending I didn’t speak English. Of course, that didn’t stop one particularly rabid fellow from whipping out “I’ll be your guide” in French, just in case.

Second stop: The audio guide window, across the courtyard, to the left of the arches. Since both the entry and audio tickets are purchased at the ticket window, you trot over here next, stand in line at the window on the right, then exchange your audio ticket for a flat digital unit that hangs around your neck (in the language of your choice). Next, you move three feet to your left, to the next line, where you get the headphones and a 3-second explanation of its use.

Third step: Head to the arch immediately to the right of the audio booth. Get in the security line. Place your bags and cameras on the x-ray machine band (think: security at the airport), give them your ticket, then pass to the other end of the band where you pick up your items. Pretty simple. Pretty understandable.

Fourth step: Turn around, face into the Outer Courtyard and gasp with the realization that you’re actually standing here. In the Forbidden City. In Beijing.

Holy cow.