Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing
Does it matter? I’m going home tomorrow. I refuse to look at my ankle tonight, so there.
Instead, I get on Skype (which, thankfully still works, unlike half my email accounts and all access to RetailSpeaks or Blogspot since the morning after I checked in). Call the folks. Get a call from my sister. And from my brother. And it was great.
In fact, this has been just about the greatest birthday of my life. In spite of being half way around the world from them, I knew all day that every single one of my family members was right there by my side, scaling the Wall, gasping at the view from the top of the Summer Palace complex, sipping champagne upstairs.
I am blessed. Over and over and over again, I’m blessed.
I’m also not even remotely tired.
Or packed.
Gulp.
Showing posts with label Birthday. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Birthday. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
The Bathologist, Chapter 3
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
Tonight's bath ritual: Arabia
Ginger, cinnamon, nubmet, geranium, cumin, and amyris
Much to my surprise, this is my favorite of the bunch. Divine. Sat in the dark bath, surrounded by my candles and rose petals, watching the “dripping lights” on the Ritz Carlton a couple of blocks away. Sipped the last of my champagne. Decided to move to Beijing.
Bubbles in Beijing
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
No way I‘m going to spend my last evening in the room, packing (besides, I’m seriously in doubt that my belongings are going to fit in the suitcase, having forgotten to buy a cheap second bag for the return home). Denial being a wonderful thing, I opt instead to head upstairs to the Executive Lounge, which I’ve been granted access to as part of a hiccup on the hotel’s part during check in.
(Note: Not a big hiccup...not even big enough to warrant this, in my mind, but the manager insisted.)
I head up, wearing faded blue jeans and my new cashmere sweater (purchased for 50 RMB each, or $7.15 US...seriously), to grab a couple of hors d’oeuvres and a cocktail while writing out postcards—if they’re going to be postmarked “Beijing,” they pretty much needed to go out in the morning. Since the room was fairly full, only one love seat was open, facing a nice American man who offered it. I sat. We visited. And I had a blast.
Turns out he’s from Arkansas, a big thoroughbred horse racing fan (who sincerely knew what he was talking about), and fun. His trip to Bejing was to visit a college friend who’s currently living here in the hotel. His friend--Chinese by birth--is a hotel staff favorite and knows the lay of the land.
We hung out in the lounge, me sipping champagne while he drank red wine, for a couple of hours. Eventually, his friend joined us, the two of them trying to convince me to join them for a trip to the foot masseuse a couple of blocks away. And this was no run o’ the mill footrub, folks; the basic package was a two hour massage, complete with oils, reflexology, the whole bit.
Wisely, I opt out—partially because as nice as they were, they're still total strangers, and partially because I’d undoubtedly be tempting fate, given the current condition of my left ankle. About an hour later, I bid my farewells, and head back to my room, champagne in hand.
After all, I have a Bathologist appointment to make.
The Westin Welcome, Part II
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
Then I got to my room.
This is what I found on my desk, next to a hand signed note wishing me a happy birthday, on behalf of the entire staff.
I’m telling you—Westin is the way to go, folks. No question.
The Westin Welcome, Part I
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing
After a tearful goodbye to Holly--who has become very near and dear to this traveler’s heart--I walked into the Westin, greeted by no fewer than three staff members with “Happy Birthday, Miss Baxter!”
???
Took me a moment to realize they have my passport on file, but the fact they take the time to make note of it, then be sure the lobby staff recognizes you from your photo, is three steps past impressive. Felt like I owned the place. Wow.
Wow.
Beijing
After a tearful goodbye to Holly--who has become very near and dear to this traveler’s heart--I walked into the Westin, greeted by no fewer than three staff members with “Happy Birthday, Miss Baxter!”
???
Took me a moment to realize they have my passport on file, but the fact they take the time to make note of it, then be sure the lobby staff recognizes you from your photo, is three steps past impressive. Felt like I owned the place. Wow.
Wow.
Beijing, Baby
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Several of my books about Beijing explained that until fairly recently, the Chinese didn’t recognize or acknowledge the wealth of historic treasures they had at their fingertips. Since then, they’ve become the largest tourism group, soaking up the sights as enthusiastically as those of us who traveled from half way around the world.
Also mentioned was a propensity for taking pictures...with foreign tourists. Specifically, with American women.
So it didn’t surprise me when a pretty, college-aged Chinese woman approached me, speaking in good English, to inquire as to whether or not I’d be willing to have my photo taken with her uncle...who claimed to be quite taken with me.
I jumped in with both feet, and had a blast. It didn’t stop there, though. After Uncle, then his brother wanted a photo, so we shot another. Next, a cousin wanted a photo, so click away. Holly was shooting with my camera while the niece and the aunts were snapping away with theirs. Felt like a little paparazzi session, right there on the shores of Kunming Lake.
The second uncle, upon seeing the nephew jump in, smiled warmly and referred to me as “Mei Guo Lao Mei.” Since Holly also smiled, I figured whatever it meant was okay. After the farewells were said, she translated for me:
Old Sister.
Huh. Not quite what a 48-year-old woman wants to hear on the day of that particular birthday.
Turns out it’s actually a complement of warmth, “old sister” being a term you’d use to refer to someone you’re fond of.
Turns out that I can live with.
The Dragon...
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
As in all palaces and royal gardens, the dragon and the phoenix appear repeatedly, symbolizing the Emperor and Empress. This dragon is in the east courts area.
Bats
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
Bats, seen in numerous carvings and sculptures in the Summer Palace complex, are a sign of happiness and longevity. These were found on a door, near the Harmony Court between the Long Corridor and the east entrance.
The Marble Boat
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
Remember Cixi, the Spend-Spend-Spend Emperess? Well, here’s her crown jewel—the Marble Boat.
The original, simpler structure was destroyed during the Second Opium War. Cixi, however, resurrected it toward the end of her 1888 renovation, completing it in 1983 by diverting funds earmarked for the Chinese Navy, with the aid of corrupt eunuchs.
The base of the boat is a marble slab that originally served as a platform for a Buddhist monastery during the Ming Dynasty; from there, they’d free birds and fish originally intended for sale in the markets (earning them good karma). The wooden "Marble" ship was built on that same platform, complete with paddle wheels on the sides and elements of European architecture. The whole thing was painted to look like marble, thus the name.
In 1903, Cixi had the top story added, along with colored glass and mirrors in positions to give the impression the boat was actually floating on water.
Which it doesn’t do.
Not too hard to see how this might have irritated the Navy along the way, but still...pretty impressive for a big, white elephant.
Twenty Heads
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
This tower is pretty impressive, three stories tall, with eight open sides to expose beautiful views in every direction. A statue of the Thousand Handed (Guanshiyin) Buddha is at the center, with a giant pearl hanging from the apex of the ceiling above its head(s). The gold gilding literally glows in the late afternoon sun, exuding a mystical quality of its own.
I can’t find anything that explains how the gold stayed in tact, since this dates back to the Ming Dynasty, long before Allied soldiers began scraping gold off the gold gilded cauldrons of the Forbidden City with their bayonets.
Chalk that up to another Chinese mystery.
(Photo credit: Vilas, from Picasa)
The View from the Top
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
Yes. Definitely worth the long, painful hike up. Just look at this view.
The main Palace complex is below, with Kunming Lake beyond it. You can see the myriad of ferry boats between the shore and South Lake Island, where visitors go to see the Temple of the Dragon King.
Beijing lays in the far distance.
Even the staircases....
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
A peek at the ceilings in the stairways, on our way to the top of the mountain. No surface is left bare here. Amazing.
On Our Way Up
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
This gate is near the Garden of Virtue and Harmony, home to the three-story-tall theater the Empress Dowager Cixi had built for her 60th birthday (in 1895). She’s responsible for much of the palace grounds...and much of the county’s financial pain paired with it.
Even though the Palace (which, ironically, isn’t just one structure, but an entire system of buildings, temples, gardens, and such) dates back to 1153, it was ransacked and virtually destroyed by Anglo-French forces in 1860 in retaliation for China’s defiance during the second Opium War. All that was left were nonflammable structures—the bronze pavilions and stone pagodas.
Twenty-eight years later, Cixi “kinda sorta” re-appropriated 30 millions taels of silver that were supposed to go to the Chinese Navy and “kinda sorta” spent them on rebuilding—and enlarging—the Summer Palace. In fact, that’s when she named it the Summer Palace.
Fast forward twelve years to 1900, when the next wave of destruction hit, this time when the Allied Forces invaded Beijing. Nearly all new construction was demolished, and all valuables were stripped and stolen by the troops.
But Cixi was a tough old cookie. Didn’t stop her from going for build out number three, this time in 1902 when, according to historical records, she "rebuilt the Summer Palace with unbounded extravagance and opulence, spending some 40,000 taels of silver per day. Singing and dancing went on without end."
Which would have been fine, if not for the fact she ransacked the state coffers yet again.
Literally moments before she died, Cixi named the next, and final, Chinese Emperor—Puyi—who ascended the thrown just weeks before his third birthday. After the 1911 Revolution, the deposed Emperor retained the Palace as private property, but three years later opened it to the public.
When he was forcibly removed from the Forbidden City and Beijing, the Summer Palace was nearly destroyed yet again—this time, by the Chinese army. After the founding of the People’s Republic in 1949, restoration began one last time.
It took nearly four decades to bring the Summer Palace back to its original grandeur, but it is most certainly there.
And it is most certainly glorious.
The Pagoda of Buddhist Fragrance
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
There it is. The high point of the palace grounds, and we’re headed that direction. The Pagoda of Buddhist Fragrance (aka, the Tower of Buddhist Incense). Right at the top of a 200 foot high staircase.
Between the Tian Tan Buddha, this morning’s climb on the Wall, and this, I sincerely expect to see a drop of at least three pounds on my bathroom scale upon returning home. I mean seriously.
Seriously.
Inside the Pavilion
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
A peek at the ceiling in the Spring? Summer? pavilion. Breathtaking.
The Four Seasons
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
As you walk along the Long Corridor, you come to four evenly spaced pavilions, each representing one of the four seasons. Inside, even the ceilings are layered with rich jewel tones crafted into intricate paintings that tell ancient stories and picture Chinese virtues.
This is the Jilan pavilion. I think it’s either spring or summer, but don’t quote me on that.
The Long Corridor
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
One of the most impressive features of the Summer Palace is The Long Corridor, zig-zagging along the coastline, beginning at the Hall of Happiness and Longevity. It’s an exquisite sight, with 17,000 hand painted images adorning every square inch of its half mile length, including the rafters, making it both the longest and the most elaborately decorated corridor in Chinese garden architecture.
The Corridor is a peaceful place, heavily shaded by trees on both sides, and Kunming Lake on the left. I can easily imagine long, slow strolls by beautifully adorned Empresses years ago. The place is simply magical.
It’s a Small World: Chapter 2
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing
It’s one thing to run into a fellow Minnesotan or two on the Great Wall (yeah, an understatement, I know).
It’s quite another to be strolling along, deep in conversation, when someone runs up, taps you on the shoulder, and says “Hey, I thought you were going to the Great Wall today!”
Yup. It happened.
A woman I met at the Pearl Market yesterday remembered our conversation, including my plans to see the Wall this morning. I told her we’d just come from there. She wished me a happy birthday (remembered that too), and was off.
Holly, of course, was initially stunned, looking at me as if a third eye had grown from the middle of my forehead. Then she stopped. Shrugged. Smiled. And said “Cinda, you know everyone in China.”
Not quite. But I’m working on it.
Beijing
It’s one thing to run into a fellow Minnesotan or two on the Great Wall (yeah, an understatement, I know).
It’s quite another to be strolling along, deep in conversation, when someone runs up, taps you on the shoulder, and says “Hey, I thought you were going to the Great Wall today!”
Yup. It happened.
A woman I met at the Pearl Market yesterday remembered our conversation, including my plans to see the Wall this morning. I told her we’d just come from there. She wished me a happy birthday (remembered that too), and was off.
Holly, of course, was initially stunned, looking at me as if a third eye had grown from the middle of my forehead. Then she stopped. Shrugged. Smiled. And said “Cinda, you know everyone in China.”
Not quite. But I’m working on it.
The Summer Palace
Tuesday, May 6, 2008Beijing
Following our hour-plus race through the hills back to Beijing, we visited the Summer Palace, where the Qing Dynasty retreated to when escaping the steamy city heat. Including the lush parks, a river and its three lakes (Kunming, West, and South), this little getaway lays out over about 2 square miles, overlooking the lakes from Longevity Hill.
How’s that for “lakeshore property?”
From the moment you enter the grounds, you’re surrounded by gardens, dragons and lions. The carving above is one near the entry, on a side wall, featuring the ever-powerful dragons and a giant pearl.
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